Thursday, September 28, 2000

El Calafate, Argentina

Well now I am really south. I spent most of yesterday and today on various buses, getting as far south as Rio Gallegos before getting another bus for El Calafate where I am now. It´s the nearest town to the Moreno Glacier, which I´m going to tomorrow.

So I forgot to give the BMC update from Argentina last time. (For those of you who are new, every time I go to a new country I look up the price of a Big Mac Combo. There was some economic theory that says you can tell how expensive a country is by how many hours it takes someone to work in order earn enough money to buy a loaf of bread. Well, my newer theory is that you can do the same thing by figuring out the price of a BMC in the equivalent US$. A while ago some economist actually published something along these lines, and won the Noble prize for economics or something (well I know they were published at least). So far the cheapest has been El Salvador at something like $2.30 US. The most expensive is Europe, almost $10). So anyways, here it´s $3.99. I didn´t actually have anything there, so I didn´t get to test my other theory which is that one of the universal phrases is ´Big Mac combo with Coke´ (I only eat at McDonald´s when I´m travelling if I´m having stomach problems).

It´s been getting colder. Some sign said it was a high of 6 degrees. I went out and bought a scarf just now because I´m going to be down south for a while. Some other observations, Argentina is one of the cleanest countries I´ve ever visited, kinda like Toronto used to be... The LP says that the Patagonian wilderness is supposed to be amazing, but to me it´s not that different from say the altiplano in Peru or even Mongolia. Actually, the only difference between here and Mongolia as far as landscape is that there are no fences in Mongolia... I haven´t seen any other extraneros (foreigners), only local Argentinian tourists. That´s okay, it´s better for my spanish. Mostly I´m understanding, except some locals talk with such a thick accent I have no idea, just nod my head and say I don´t understand. Which doesn´t seem to perturb them, they just keep on talking... The biggest thing on tv today (I had some time to kill in the bus station) was a big debate on whether Diego Maradona and his wife (?) were going through a bad time. This would be like Canadians debating whether Gretzky is appearing in too many commercials. (well, I guess we do debate that)... Lotsa people have cell phones here, and there´s a lot of DirectTV dishes. It looks like the whole country skipped the wire phase and moved straight to wireless.

Well anyways, tomorrow I´m off to the Moreno glacier. The LP says it´s one of the top two sights in South America, but I´ll reserve my opinion. It´s up against some pretty stiff competition on this continent.

Tuesday, September 26, 2000

Puerto Madryn, Argentina

Well here I am in Argentina. I flew into Buenos Aires, arriving not so awake on Saturday morning. I managed to get myself to Florencio Varela, (about an hour outside of BA) which is where my friend Kirsty now lives. Some of you may remember her from my trip to Mongolia that we had about an adventure a day. Anyways, she now teaches english in Argentina. So we met up after 3 years, but it didn´t really seem like 3 years. She has latin dance classes every Sat., so I went along. It must have because I was so tired that I couldn´t catch on. (must have been). I looked quite the fool. Later that night we went for dinner at the house of the guy who runs the school. His family was very friendly, and I managed to half understand the conversation (it was in spanish mostly). Much later that night we went out dancing. People here only go out around 2:00 am, even that is a bit early. We got home around 6:30.

The next day me & Kirsty and one of her friends explored around BA, saw some tango in the streets, tried to see Eva Peron´s grave but it was closed for the day, then I took off by bus south. I ended up in Puerto Madryn (where I am now), which is probably too small to be on most maps but it´s just outside Peninsula Valdes. The peninsula is a reserve, where today I went to see right whales, elephant seals and sea lions. The right whales were huge! We went out in a boat into the bay, and then they cut the engines and we just floated. Some of the whales came right up to the boat and swam under it. They were bigger than the boat I think. Took lotsa pictures. Maybe some will turn out. Then after we saw where the elephant seals were nesting (?), there were two born while we were there.

It´s much warmer here in Pto. Madryn than in BA, I think it went up to 19.3 degrees today. (well, that´s what the sign said anyways). In BA I thought I was going to freeze to death, but I guess I can always buy winter stuff. The spanish here is weird too. The double ll, which is pronounced as a ´y´ everywhere else, is ´sh´. On the plane over, the flight attendant asked me if I wanted carne or posho for dinner, and because I had no idea at the time what posho was, took the meat. Only later I found out she was trying to say pollo, which is one of the first words you learn travelling in latin america (it means chicken). But for a while I thought that my spanish had really deteriorated because I had no idea what posho was. But today I managed to do okay again, I´m starting to understand people when they speak which I could never do before (unless in context).

It´s also pretty cosmopolitan over here, I have no idea who is a tourist and who´s local. There´s a lot of mixed european backgrounds.

So tomorrow I´m headed for eventually El Calafate, which is near the Moreno Glacier near the border of Chile.

Well hope everything is okay over there. I saw that Canada now has something like 9 bronze, which ranks us 26th? Go Canada!