Friday, October 13, 2000

Buenos Aries, Argentina

Well I`m back in Buenos Aires so this is probably the last update for this trip. Don`t know when or where the next trip is, the when will decide the where, but there`s still lots of the world to see.

So came back yesterday from Uruguay. Saw Montevideo and Colonia. On the bus ride between the two, if I had taken a picture it would have been hard to tell if it was Canada or Uruguay, it was pretty much the same countryside.

In Montevideo I stayed in this really nice old colonial hotel, with huge ceilings and a balcony that overlooked the main drag. It was a pretty cool room. Ate lunch one day at the market, it was one of the best meals I had so far. The people here eat even more meat than in Argetina. I had a half portion of asado for lunch (which is grilled beef), it was more than enough. Everyone else had probably three times as much as me, and this was only lunch! I took a picture of the grill, it´s amazing (if you like barbeques).

Then went to Colonia, which is as the name suggests a nice colonial town. I took a bunch of pictures, and then the next day I think I took the same pictures all over again. It`s very picturesque.

Now I´m back in BA. Tomorrow, Kirsty & I are planning to go to El Tigre, which is a bit west of BA, then I´ll jump on a plane and head back. There´s supposed to be a big arts and crafts place there, which hopefully will have some things worth buying. So far, the places I´ve been too have lacked indigenous arts & crafts, so there hasn´t been any cool souvenirs to buy.

BMC update:

There are McD`s in Paraguay (saw billboards in the street) but never actually saw any restaurants. So no update from there. In Uruguay, a BMC is 44 Uruguayan pesos (about 3.75 US). Which is about right, Uruguay is somewhat cheaper than Argentina (here´s it´s 3.99 US), but still a bit expensive of a country. (BTW, the lunch I had at the market, came to about $5 US). And presumably there are McD´s in Brazil, but not in Foz do Iguacu.

Thursday, October 05, 2000

Buenos Aries, Argentina

Well, I have returned to BA. I flew back yesterday from Ushuaia, which was much quicker than the bus rides to get there. (Only 3 hours).

So Ushuaia was pretty cool. There were a bunch of war ships from 5 countries in port, doing some naval exercises. Unfortunately that meant that the entire town was filled with navy types. On Tuesday me & the german guy from the hostel who spoke really good spanish tried to trek up one of the peaks to see a glacier. It took us about 3 hours walking uphill in snow to get near the top, only to find out that at this time of year the glacier is covered with snow and you can´t see anything. But there were cool views of Ushuaia (I think we were at about 1250 m) and also looking south. We tried to figure out which way was exactly south, but we weren´t really sure. There´s a lot of islands further south than Ushuaia, in fact the next one south is only about a couple km across the water, but you can´t get to any of them cheaply. We slid down the peak on our backs in the snow (it was about a 45 degree incline) which in retrospect wasn´t such a good idea cause I got my only jacket and sweater wet, but it was way fun. Then that night we splurged on dinner and went to an all-you-can-eat (here´s it´s a tenedor libre, which translates to free fork) and ate too much. After in the hostel there were actually lotsa backpackers, so we drank most of the night away, in a combination of mostly spanish and some english.

Then next morning I caught my flight back to BA, and stayed at Kirsty´s place again. We went to salsa class again (this time I wasn´t so tired so I did better). Then I was trying to buy groceries for dinner, and was looking for zucchini (sp?) but didn´t know the spanish word for it, and couldn´t tell the difference between a zuchini (that spelling looks better) and a cucumber, and ended up buying a cucumber. Who´s to know with all these similar vegetables.

Today I was supposed to go to Iguazu but decided to relax a day in BA and do some sightseeing (saw Eva Peron´s grave amongst others), and tomorrow I´m going to the falls. Then I´ll try to see if they´ll let me into Paraguay, (Canadians need a visa in advance according to the embassy in Canada, but at the border maybe they´ll have a different opinion).

Tuesday, October 03, 2000

Ushuaia, Argentina

Well I am now at the bottom of the Americas. For the last time, this is the furthest south I have ever been. I got to Ushuaia yesterday evening, finally reaching the furthest south you can get by road & ferry. Just bought a ticket to fly back to BA, cause it´s cheaper and also I don´t want to spend all that time on buses. So today I plan to trek out to another glacier, and then send a bunch of postcards. If you don´t get one, it must have got lost in the mail. You know how it is here with the post.

In the hostel that I´m staying at, there´s a couple other backpackers whose spanish is pretty good. So last night we talked mostly in spanish, which I always find odd when people speak in their second (or non-first at least) language, when I think we all spoke english better. But it´s good for the practice. Last night I also splurged on dinner and ate in a restaurant (as opposed to buying stuff in a store and eating in the hostel). I had cordero, which is a lot of meat. Too much meat in fact, I couldn´t even finish half. But it was way good. Beer´s also pretty cheap here, $1.60 US for a 940 ml 4.9% bottle. (Actually, I guess that´s about the same price as Canada. It just seems cheap for Argentina).

Punta Arenas (the last town I was in) was a really nice place. The centro is pretty small, so it´s easy to walk around. People don´t seem to mind the temperature either. Although there´s not much of a range here, I think the temperature is between 5 and 15 in summer and 0 and 10 in winter, but when it´s 15 it´s like it´s summer. Most locals are in short sleeves, and at night people go out for ice cream! Although I guess it´s like how I drive on the first nice spring day with my window down (but I do have the heat blasting).

Ushuaia I´ll see today, but there´s about 12 navy ships from different countries in port, so there´s a tonne of military people all over town, which isn´t so nice (darned tourists). At first I thought that they were on vacation or something and that the flights to BA would all be full but they´ll be leaving by boat (or whatever the term is). It was also strange after being in all these towns before tourist season and now there´s a million tourists.

Sunday, October 01, 2000

Punta Arenas, Chile

Well once again this is the furthest south I´ve ever been. I´m in Punta Arenas, a stop on the way to Ushuaia. Tomorrow I take a bus / boat / bus / bus to get to Ushuaia, about 14 hours. Then I´ll fly back to BA and go to Foz de Iguazu after.

So I saw the Perito Moreno glacier two days ago. It was pretty cool, I took a lot of pictures but I don´t think they´ll look as impressive. I went on a tour, and there were actually other backpackers on it! It was a good group, I can´t remember the names, but there was a girl from Ireland (whose spanish was excellent), a girl from Japan (who was seeing the highlights (Machu Pichu, the glacier, Foz de Iguazu, the tepuis in Venezuala) all in 4 weeks! I thought my trip was rushed), a American guy, a local guy from Argentina who was there on business, and an Italian guy (and me). So we had a great day at the glacier, watching for the big chunks of ice to fall. There´s always pieces breaking off, but every now and then a huge piece falls off. Not the day we were there though. Apparently 28 people have been killed by flying pieces of ice as they break off since 1960, but now they don´t let you get as close. It was a perfect day, there wasn´t a cloud in the sky. Our driver said that there´s only 3 days like this every year, but I don´t believe that´s true. Although some other people in town went to see it a couple days ago it was totally cloudy and they didn´t really get a good view. We had lunch there, and then got back for the evening. We all went out for dinner, and then ended up playing pool at some bar. The Argentina guy also explained something, that if you speak in spanish, the locals will try to reply in their best english, because you have made the effort to speak in their language. It´s not like in France. At first I thought it was rude that whenever I was talking to our driver in spanish, he would reply in english, but I guess that´s why. It´s awfully confusing to me, to listen in english and reply in spanish though.

Yesterday I spent on buses (this is a big continent!) getting to here. The Chilean border guy was pretty amused with my passport, he checked out each and every stamp and tried to figure out where it was from (muy lejos (very far) he kept on saying). Meanwhile there was a line up waiting but you don´t rush border officials. At least there´s no visa fee. I got here (Punta Arenas is in Chile) late in the evening, but travelling is very easy now with ATMs and the internet everywhere. Even say 4 years ago, you couldn´t just show up in a new country on a Saturday night, because all the money exchange places would be closed. But now you can just go to an ATM, withdraw the local currency, and Bob´s your uncle. (Back when I was young...)

Checked out the Saturday night in Punta Arenas. It´s like Argentina here, things don´t really start until 1:00 am. Unfortunately, I did not know that I´m now in a different time zone, so I went out at what I thought was midnight (a little early, but I figured not too bad), but in fact it was only 11:00 pm so everything was dead. I thought that everything just wasn´t busy. Only found out about the time change when I was rushing to get up to make it for breakfast (the hostel I´m in serves breakfast until 10:00) and then it turned out I was an hour early.

Thursday, September 28, 2000

El Calafate, Argentina

Well now I am really south. I spent most of yesterday and today on various buses, getting as far south as Rio Gallegos before getting another bus for El Calafate where I am now. It´s the nearest town to the Moreno Glacier, which I´m going to tomorrow.

So I forgot to give the BMC update from Argentina last time. (For those of you who are new, every time I go to a new country I look up the price of a Big Mac Combo. There was some economic theory that says you can tell how expensive a country is by how many hours it takes someone to work in order earn enough money to buy a loaf of bread. Well, my newer theory is that you can do the same thing by figuring out the price of a BMC in the equivalent US$. A while ago some economist actually published something along these lines, and won the Noble prize for economics or something (well I know they were published at least). So far the cheapest has been El Salvador at something like $2.30 US. The most expensive is Europe, almost $10). So anyways, here it´s $3.99. I didn´t actually have anything there, so I didn´t get to test my other theory which is that one of the universal phrases is ´Big Mac combo with Coke´ (I only eat at McDonald´s when I´m travelling if I´m having stomach problems).

It´s been getting colder. Some sign said it was a high of 6 degrees. I went out and bought a scarf just now because I´m going to be down south for a while. Some other observations, Argentina is one of the cleanest countries I´ve ever visited, kinda like Toronto used to be... The LP says that the Patagonian wilderness is supposed to be amazing, but to me it´s not that different from say the altiplano in Peru or even Mongolia. Actually, the only difference between here and Mongolia as far as landscape is that there are no fences in Mongolia... I haven´t seen any other extraneros (foreigners), only local Argentinian tourists. That´s okay, it´s better for my spanish. Mostly I´m understanding, except some locals talk with such a thick accent I have no idea, just nod my head and say I don´t understand. Which doesn´t seem to perturb them, they just keep on talking... The biggest thing on tv today (I had some time to kill in the bus station) was a big debate on whether Diego Maradona and his wife (?) were going through a bad time. This would be like Canadians debating whether Gretzky is appearing in too many commercials. (well, I guess we do debate that)... Lotsa people have cell phones here, and there´s a lot of DirectTV dishes. It looks like the whole country skipped the wire phase and moved straight to wireless.

Well anyways, tomorrow I´m off to the Moreno glacier. The LP says it´s one of the top two sights in South America, but I´ll reserve my opinion. It´s up against some pretty stiff competition on this continent.

Tuesday, September 26, 2000

Puerto Madryn, Argentina

Well here I am in Argentina. I flew into Buenos Aires, arriving not so awake on Saturday morning. I managed to get myself to Florencio Varela, (about an hour outside of BA) which is where my friend Kirsty now lives. Some of you may remember her from my trip to Mongolia that we had about an adventure a day. Anyways, she now teaches english in Argentina. So we met up after 3 years, but it didn´t really seem like 3 years. She has latin dance classes every Sat., so I went along. It must have because I was so tired that I couldn´t catch on. (must have been). I looked quite the fool. Later that night we went for dinner at the house of the guy who runs the school. His family was very friendly, and I managed to half understand the conversation (it was in spanish mostly). Much later that night we went out dancing. People here only go out around 2:00 am, even that is a bit early. We got home around 6:30.

The next day me & Kirsty and one of her friends explored around BA, saw some tango in the streets, tried to see Eva Peron´s grave but it was closed for the day, then I took off by bus south. I ended up in Puerto Madryn (where I am now), which is probably too small to be on most maps but it´s just outside Peninsula Valdes. The peninsula is a reserve, where today I went to see right whales, elephant seals and sea lions. The right whales were huge! We went out in a boat into the bay, and then they cut the engines and we just floated. Some of the whales came right up to the boat and swam under it. They were bigger than the boat I think. Took lotsa pictures. Maybe some will turn out. Then after we saw where the elephant seals were nesting (?), there were two born while we were there.

It´s much warmer here in Pto. Madryn than in BA, I think it went up to 19.3 degrees today. (well, that´s what the sign said anyways). In BA I thought I was going to freeze to death, but I guess I can always buy winter stuff. The spanish here is weird too. The double ll, which is pronounced as a ´y´ everywhere else, is ´sh´. On the plane over, the flight attendant asked me if I wanted carne or posho for dinner, and because I had no idea at the time what posho was, took the meat. Only later I found out she was trying to say pollo, which is one of the first words you learn travelling in latin america (it means chicken). But for a while I thought that my spanish had really deteriorated because I had no idea what posho was. But today I managed to do okay again, I´m starting to understand people when they speak which I could never do before (unless in context).

It´s also pretty cosmopolitan over here, I have no idea who is a tourist and who´s local. There´s a lot of mixed european backgrounds.

So tomorrow I´m headed for eventually El Calafate, which is near the Moreno Glacier near the border of Chile.

Well hope everything is okay over there. I saw that Canada now has something like 9 bronze, which ranks us 26th? Go Canada!

Sunday, January 02, 2000

Eric D'Souza's Top 100

  1. Machu Picchu (Cuzco, Peru)
  2. Bagan (Bagan, Myanmar)
  3. Angkor Wat (Siem Reap, Cambodia)
  4. Moai (Easter Island, Chile)
  5. Monastery (Petra, Jordan)
  6. Tikal (Flores, Guatemala)
  7. Perito Moreno Glacier (El Calafate, Argentina)
  8. Erta Ale (Ethiopia)
  9. Mountain Gorillas (Ruhengeri, Rwanda)
  10. Great Mosque (Djenne, Mali)
  11. Angel Falls (Venezuela)
  12. Abuna Yemata Guh (Tigray, Ethiopia)
  13. Great Wall (Simatai, China)
  14. Taktshang Goemba / Tiger's Nest Monastery (outside Paro, Bhutan)
  15. Palenque (Mexico)
  16. Shwedagon Pagoda (Yangon, Myanmar)
  17. Borobudur (Indonesia)
  18. Salar de Uyuni (Boliva)
  19. Potala Palace (Lhasa, China)
  20. Laguna Verde (Bolivia)
  21. Punakha Dzong (Punakha, Bhutan)
  22. Oval Plaza (Jerash, Jordan)
  23. Bete Giyorgis / Church of Saint George (Lalibela, Ethiopia)
  24. al-Siq (Petra, Jordan)
  25. Tanneries (Fez, Morocco)
  26. Iguazu Falls (Brasil and Argentina)
  27. Friendship Highway at "roof of the world" 5150m (Tibet to Nepal)
  28. Salt mining in Lac Assale (Lac Assale, Ethiopia)
  29. Swayambunath at dawn (Kathmandu, Nepal)
  30. Hermitage Museum (St Petersburg, Russia)
  31. Terracotta Army (Xi'an, China)
  32. Great Pyramid (Giza, Egypt)
  33. Recumbent Buddha in Gal Vihara (Polonnaruwa, Sri Lanka)
  34. Jomsom Trek at Muktinath (Muktinath, Nepal)
  35. Khongoryn Els sand dunes (Gobi Desert, Mongolia)
  36. Plains of the Serengeti (Tanzania)
  37. Las Torres (Torres del Paine National Park, Chile)
  38. Sunset in Mazatlan (Mazatlan, Mexico)
  39. Galapagos Islands (Ecuador)
  40. Taj Mahal (Agra, India)
  41. Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ (St Petersburg, Russia)
  42. Prambanan Temples (Indonesia)
  43. Acropolis (Athens, Greece)
  44. Volubilis (outside Meknes, Morocco)
  45. St Basil's Cathedral (Moscow, Russia)
  46. Stonehenge (Amesbury, England)
  47. Nazca Lines (Nazca, Peru)
  48. View of La Paz from the altiplano (La Paz, Bolivia)
  49. Las Lajas Sanctuary (Ipiales, Colombia)
  50. Wailing Wall (Jerusalem, Israel)
  51. Convento de Cristo (Tomar, Portugal)
  52. Copan (Copan Ruinas, Honduras)
  53. Geiser del Tatio (Chile)
  54. Royal Palace (Luang Prabang, Lao)
  55. Ngorongoro Crater (Tanzania)
  56. Deer Cave (Mulu, Malaysia)
  57. The Kremlin (Moscow, Russia)
  58. Snorkeling with Whale Sharks (Djibouti City, Djibouti)
  59. Victoria Falls (Zambia, Zimbabwe)
  60. Bayanzag (Gobi Desert, Mongolia)
  61. Teotihuacan (Mexico City, Mexico)
  62. Valle de la Luna (Atacama Desert, Chile)
  63. Church of St Stephen (Umm ar-Rasas, Jordan)
  64. Forbidden City (Beijing, China)
  65. Wat Pho (Bangkok, Thailand)
  66. Panama Canal (Panama City, Panama)
  67. Chichen Itza (Mexico)
  68. Trollfjord (Lofoten, Norway)
  69. Leaning Tower of PIsa (Pisa, Italy)