Saturday, December 04, 2004

Toronto, Canada

I finished putting my pictures up on ofoto.com. You can check them out by clicking here.

They include pictures from Angkor Wat which I hadn't posted before.

My favourite


See the route on Atlas.

Sunday, November 28, 2004

Bangkok, Thailand

Well I'm at the airport using up the remaining minutes on my Internet card. Was up at 3:15 am! may have well as not have even gone to sleep.

Read in the Bangkok Times that the Argos won the Grey Cup! Yes, the CFL is considered newsworthy here in Thailand. Wonder if it even made the front page of the Star?

So I liked the idea of keeping a blog instead of a diary, although there were occasions where it would have been nice to have a diary, like on the slow boat up the Mekong. I met some people who kept notes and then typed them in when they had web access. Seemed like too much work though.

I found the digital camera way more convenient than film; I took 2 or 3 times as many pictures, and it was very easy to download or get CDs cut.

Thanks to everyone who made comments!

Learnt a bit on this trip, although it's easy to learn when you're forced into the situation. As my friend Kirk said, the trick is to keep on learning when you're back at home and not forced into it.

Anyways, see all the Toronto folk soon!

Bangkok, Thailand

So I've still got a bit of a cold. So sucks. Took the train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok yesterday, and I don't think the guy beside me was too impressed that I was coughing and sniffling the whole way down for 12 hours.

Splurged on a nice hotel for the last two nights. Actually, I was kinda forced into it because I couldn't find a guest house that had a room available. It's now the really busy season for tourism in Thailand, so I was trying to book a room while I was still in Chiang Mai. After about 7 or 8 phone calls, I gave up and went to a travel agent, who booked me into this hotel.

I'm on the 18th floor of the Suriwongse Tower Inn, and for $30 I get a 3-star equivalent hotel room. Not your average backpacker place -- there's hot water in the sink (normally there's only been hot water in the shower), a kitchen & fridge, an american breakfast included, clean sheets and towels every day...

The last night in Chiang Mai I was too sick to see the end of the festival. It continued to rain all evening, which put a bit of a damper on things. It was fun hanging out with the Dutch guy and Finnish girl though -- the night before me and the Dutch guy won Chang Beer tshirts, you had to score more than 80 in 3 darts. We just had fun counting in Thai. (Counting is pretty easy, once you know 1 to 10, then e.g. 11 is just ten-one, 34 is three-ten-four.) And for some reason we switched to speaking in spanish for the rest of the night. Which was very odd to me (although I'm sure the alcohol had something to do with it).

Took the BTS Skytrain from my hotel to the very large Chatuchak weekend market this morning. The Skytrain is pretty efficient, and there's plenty of english signage. Also at the interchange, they actually swap the lines for changing. So for example the eastbound and northbound are on the same platform, and the westbound and southbound are another platform. Which makes more sense then what we have in Toronto, where the east- and westbound are on the same platform -- how often do you switch from east to west? At least this way 50% of the time you don't need to switch platforms. It was also really clean, and only 40 baht for the ride from my hotel to the market (it's zoned pricing).

The Lonely Planet claims the Chatuchak market has over 15,000 stalls. I spent about 3 hours wandering around, and saw maybe 20% of it. It was jam packed with people. The prices were pretty good -- not as cheap as the festival market in Chiang Mai, but close enough. Now I just have to figure out how to get all this stuff home. Dang these large souvenirs.

Hope to get in one last massage this evening, and then it's a long 19 hour flight to Chicago tomorrow...

Friday, November 26, 2004

Chiang Mai, Thailand

It's been raining most of today, the first time that's it's rained on me this trip. Which was okay cause I have a bit of a cold and probably would have stayed in anyways.

Yesterday took a Thai cooking class. It was really good; there were 9 of us in the class, and we started by picking the 5 dishes each that we wanted to make. Next was a trip to the market to buy ingredients. One of the things I liked about this cooking school is that they give you various names for the ingredients, and suggest alternatives if you can't find something in your home country.

Coconut cream was part of everything we cooked -- and we bought it fresh here. You pick out the coconuts in the market, and then the flesh is scraped out, a bit of water is added, and then the cream is squeezed out. It looks a bit milky.

We all had our own woks to cook from. The teacher talked in a rather monotone voice, but he was really enthusiastic about us learning a bit of Thai culture.

Then as the teacher said, we cook, we eat, we cook, we eat, five times. I never thought about that part -- we ate 5 full meals in 8 hours. I was stuffed.

After went out drinking with some of the other people in the class, a Dutch guy and a Finnish girl. Some other people that they had met on treks joined us. We drank Archa beer, and watched the many hot air lanterns rise to the skies. There were many more last night -- at least ten in the sky at any one moment.

Hopefully the rain will stop for the end of the festival tonight. Tomorrow I'm on a train to Bangkok, and then I fly home on Monday.

Here's some of the dishes I cooked yesterday:

Shrimp soup


Green curry


Pad thai


Spring rolls -- check out the presentation!

Thursday, November 25, 2004

Chiang Mai, Thailand

I lucked out that there's a festival in Chiang Mai, (an annual festival, based on the lunar calendar). As part of it, there's a huge street market for 3 days and it's by far the best market I've seen ever. The quality is amazing, and it stretches for kilometres. And unlike other markets, most of the stuff is unique and non-repetitive, and there's not much mass-produced junk. Most of the people shopping at the market are Thai -- there's not too many foreigners.

Last night Darren and I ended up at a bar where they had an open mike night -- but also if you just played an instrument, you could play with the band. So after a couple beers I went up and played a few songs. That was pretty cool (for me, I don't know if the rest of the bar appreciated it, although they did clap)

Tonight we went to the local night market (a different location than the festival market), for which Chiang Mai is known for. However, it turned out to be a fairly large tourist trap -- prices were ten times (ten times!) the prices at the festival market -- and when I tried to bargain saying that the price was cheaper at the other market, they grabbed the merchandise back and told me to go to the other market! So I did.

As part of the festival, there's these mini- hot air balloons that are launched. They're a cylinder made from tissue paper, about 2 feet in diameter, and 4 feet tall, and there's a wick mounted at the bottom. At any given moment there's one or two in the air. There's something uplifting about watching these rise to the heavens. The festival ends on Friday night, and we're hoping that there'll be a lot of balloons launched that night.

Tomorrow I've signed up for an all-day cooking class. We each get to choose five dishes to make, and start at the market buying ingredients. All day eating. Mmmm.

Some more pics:

AFW. (Another wat)


Just in case anyone doubted the ubiquitousness of western culture on the rest of the world...


Me with the band. Notice that they were careful not to place any mikes near me


Tuesday, November 23, 2004

Chiang Mai, Thailand

I've just survived 3 days without Internet access! Yes, the world is not yet fully on the web.

On Friday, Raoul, Mary, and I went on a day trip to Kuang Si Falls, about an hour outside of Luang Prabang. We picked up another Canadian along the way. The falls looked really beautiful, they're not the biggest or anything, but it was a nice setting. We had a swim in the bottom pool, which was really refreshing. The water was so clear, and it was a nice change from the salty sea water I was swimming in earlier on the trip.

I spent the next two days going upstream on the Mekong, on my way to the border of Thailand. There's two options, a fast boat, and a slow boat. The fast boat does the entire journey in about 8 hours; the slow boat takes two days and stops overnight in Pakbeng.

The slow boat was really nice, the Mekong is actually quite narrow (about 500m?) at points, so it has a really nice atmosphere. I've been on other rivers where you can barely see the other side, and it's just not the same feel.

There were about 30 people on the boat, an equal split of locals and backpackers. Almost all the backpackers were reading; it's a great place to read a book (or two or three). Opposite me was the Dan Brown reading club -- by coincidence, two people were reading The DaVinci Code, and another Digital Fortress. I had my eye on Digital Fortress for trading, and fortunately the girl finished it and traded with me :) It was good, although I liked TDVC better.

Pakbeng is a little riverside town in the middle of nowhere. And it has no Internet access.

I was debating taking the fast boat the next day, but then talked to some other backpackers who had been in accidents in the fast boats (hitting submerged logs or rocks). So decided on the slow boat.

Unfortunately the slow boat got into Huay Xai (the border town on the Lao side) just after the border closed, so we spent the night there.

Huay Xai is a little riverside town in the middle of nowhere. And it has no Internet access.

Met some interesting people on the boat. First there was a Japanese character. He was 63, and spoke just about every language in the region. He flitted about from group to group talking whatever language they were. He was sitting down for dinner with us, and uttered a line I definitely won't hear again sorry, I have to excuse myself, there's a group of Burmese hill tribe people at the next table, and I haven't spoken their dialect in 20 years. Yep.

There was also a group of 3 Texans. I repeat, a group of 3 Texans. I normally try to avoid stereotyping people, but it was very odd to see 3 Texans backpacking around Lao. Good for them.

You may have noticed I've been calling the country Lao. The proper name is Lao PDR, and somehow it got mixed up to Laos (the Lonely Planet blames the French) and that's what the rest of the world calls it now.

The next morning, traveling with Darren (an American who'd been on the slow boat with me), we crossed the border in Thailand, and spent a good part of the day on buses, eventually getting to Mae Sai, a town on the border with Myanmar. It's possible to enter Myanmar for the day without a visa (you just pay $5 USD, and leave your passport at the border). So we plunked down our $5 and spent 3 hours in Myanmar. Bought some souvenirs, a rather heavy (2.5 kg! My entire pack weighs less than 10 kg) gong, and a guitar case (for $4!!).

A five hour bus ride this morning brought me to Chiang Mai, where I'll relax before returning to Bangkok to fly home. I'm hoping to take some cooking classes here.

Some more pics:

On the Mekong. The boat in the foreground is similar to the boat we were on


Man fishing in the Mekong


Night out in Luang Prabang. Check out the cool bamboo straw. Mary's the hand model


Kuang Si Falls

Friday, November 19, 2004

Luang Prabang, Laos

Still in Luang Prabang. This is one of my favourite places that I've been to. Here's some more pics:

Men playing petanque


Wat in Luang Prabang


Monks walking by the Royal Palace


Flower fallen on the steps

Thursday, November 18, 2004

Luang Prabang, Laos

After all the oppressive heat that I've experienced here, I nearly froze to death on the bus ride from Vang Vieng to Luang Prabang. The bus goes up through the hillls/mountains (about 2000m I would guess) and it was a rainy day, but all the tourists and I were dressed for 35C and sun. After an hour of shivering, we all dug into our backpacks under the bus at the first pit stop for warmer clothes.

The drive was pretty windy (as you would expect in the hills), but it was paved the entire way. It's been a while since I've taken a long distance bus ride over dirt roads...

Left Dee behind in Vang Vieng, she has a bit more time than me and wanted to explore around a bit more. Met up with 3 other single travelers on the bus: Tommy (from Newfoundland), Raoul (a Dutch guy) and Mary (from Tasmania).

Mary is the first person I've met who's been to more countries than Gerry and I. Gerry is my friend that I traveled through Russia, Mongolia and China with about 7 years ago. In Russia, we met an english guy whose goal was to visit 100 countries in his lifetime. Gerry and I adopted his goal; but Gerry's always been ahead of me. Gerry is at 57 right now; Laos is number 55 for me. Mary's been to 59! and she's younger than me! For Gerry and me, it's a competition, Mary seemed somewhat disinterested in the number...

Got into Luang Prabang at dusk, so just had time to get guest houses and then meet for dinner. We ended up at different guest houses because the town's pretty full. Met for dinner and then drank the night away.

Finished the book I got from Dee, Adam and Eve and Pinch Me by Ruth Rendell. If anyone has read this book, can you please tell me how it ends? The copy I have (as warned by Dee) has the last two pages ripped out. I've just read that (and skip to the next paragraph if you don't want me to ruin it) Minty has knifed another person in her house, and then realized it wasn't a ghost.

Touristed around Luang Prabang today -- it's a beautiful little town, with a very European feel to it. It's a UNESCO protected site or whatever they do.

Anyways meeting up with the Tommy, Raoul and Mary in a few minutes for dinner, tomorrow we're going to rent motorbikes and see some of the sights around Luang Prabang. We've heard rumours that foreigners on bikes outside of town are stopped by police and fined (for riding bkies out of town), so we may end up just getting a tuktuk.

Wednesday, November 17, 2004

Vang Vieng, Laos

Took the bus this morning to Vang Viang, about 3 hours north of Vientiane. This place exists solely because of backpackers. On the menu for dinner, it listed a bunch of western food, and then under ethnic foods it listed LAO FOOD! Can you believe it?

Anyways only stopped here because I couldn't get a direct bus to Luang Prabang. Touristed around, saw the caves in the karst (the geographical name of the rock formations). The walk to the caves was pretty cool -- first it was about a 1km walk through rice paddies, then over a dried-up river bed, then through a forest, finally to the caves. The path's well-trodden (or is that well-trod?) so it's easy to follow.

Here's some pics:

That Luang, a temple in Vientiane (taken at sunset)



Karst surrounding Vang Vieng



Monday, November 15, 2004

Vientiane, Laos

I'm now in Vientiane, the sleepy capital of Laos. The city is preparing itself for the ASEAN Summit being held here at the end of the month, so it looks pretty spiffy. There are pretty severe travel restrictions starting next week (I think they want all the backpackers out of town, so there's room for all the summit people), so I'm lucky that I'm here now.

On Saturday, Dee (the Irish girl) and I rented motorbikes and toured around outside of Pakse. It's almost too easy to rent motorbikes -- all you need is $6 and a passport for a deposit (I used my expired Mastercard as the deposit -- at least I'm getting some use out of carrying it :) ).

Dee had only ridden a bike twice before, so she was the experienced rider between the two of us. Somehow we made it out of Pakse without running over anyone, and we headed along route 13 towards Tad Lo, a waterfall about 90 km north. The traffic doesn't go very fast here -- we rarely exceeded the speed limit of 40 km/h.

There were beautiful views of rural Laos along the way. We stopped at a couple roadside huts for refreshments -- said our Sabadee (Hello) then smiled a lot, out of vocabulary. The people are really friendly.

After two hours and only 50 km out of Pakse, we realized that we wouldn't reach the waterfall with any hope of getting back before dark. Decided that just touring around on bikes was cool enough, and so headed back to Pakse.

Met up with an english guy, Duncan, who was also staying at our guest house, and we headed out for dinner. I still can't believe how cheap everything is here -- I had a Lao noodle soup for dinner, a Pepsi (can't seem to find Coke here), and a large Lao beer -- for $1.80. Dee and I were beat after spending all day biking in the hot sun, so we took it easy on the drinking.

Yesterday caught the flight from Pakse to Vientiane, hopefully my last time leaving the ground on this trip. This is the most I've flown internally -- normally I prefer ground travel because you see more of the country, and meet more locals.

We checked into a really nice guesthouse -- there's a lounge on the 2nd floor overlooking the street, and it's a great place to meet other backpackers.

Had dinner along the banks of the Mekong. There's a whole string of vendors along the riverbank, serving dinner on tables lit by candlelight. It's a very cool setting.

There's a curfew of 10:30 here (which seems to come and go in Laos), so we didn't have much time to bar hop. All the bars kick you out promptly at 10:30 sorry, police come soon.

It's stinking hot here (high of 33C today), so most activity is in the morning and evening, with the mid-day hours reserved for napping and reading (and of course, surfing the web).

Here's some more pics (click on them for a larger image). Unfortunately I cut a CD with all my Angkor Wat pictures which Marissa took home with her, so the Angkor Wat pics will have to wait until I get back:

One of the wats in Vientiane




Inside the wat




A roadside "gas station" along route 13 outside Pakse




Roadside break from biking -- that's Dee with her back to the camera buying a snack



Friday, November 12, 2004

Pakse, Laos

Marissa left for Bangkok this morning, and I carried on to Pakse, in southeastern Laos.

The only reason I came here is because I couldn't get a plane ticket direct to Vientienne. However, this turned out to be a good thing, because not many backpackers stopover here, and it's quite a nice little town.

Met up with a girl from Ireland at the airport (getting the Laotian visa was no problem because I flew in) (although it's not as nice looking as the Cambodian visa) and tomorrow we're going to rent motorbikes and head to some of the nearby sites. There's a couple waterfalls that are supposed to be pretty cool.

Pakse itself is a small little town, about 60,000 people. The local people don't seem to mind tourists, in fact we're almost ignored which is quite a novelty.

We wandered around town in the heat today, and I ended up buying a guitar! for only $15! So now I have a guitar to lug around, but it's kinda cool in the guest houses, because it seems like almost everyone plays guitar.

Anyways it's quite expensive here for the internet so I'm off to drink. Apparently the local beer (Beer Lao) is the best in the world, and it's darned cheap. We just paid 4000 kip (about 50 cents) for a 668ml 5% beer! I think it tastes pretty good, but I'd like to have a side-by-side taste with a Keiths. (I like Keiths a lot).

Tuesday, November 09, 2004

Siem Reap, Cambodia

I've wanted to see Angkor Wat for a while, but I didn't realize until I got here that Angkor Wat is just one of the temples in a huge complex. The area is so large, you can buy a 7-day pass!

We arrived Monday night in Siem Reap, the town that neighbours the temples of Angkor Wat. We were fortunate that we were at the back of the prop plane from Bangkok, because we were first off the plane, and first in line at customs. We were duly processed, and then my bag was the first off the conveyor! The last passenger we think must have waited over an hour to get through immigration and customs, because they are rather methodical. But the visa is the nicest looking visa I've ever got, better even than the transit visa for Latvia or the full-page stamp from Mongolia.

Siem Reap is a bustling town, barely able to keep up with all the increasing number of tourists. In a few years I worry it will be like Koh Phi Phi :(

We booked a tuktuk driver through the hotel, and started out to see the temples. A tuktuk is a motorcycle with a 2-person cart attached to the back. For $10 a day, we had our own personal escort.

First we stopped off to buy a 3-day pass. It's a really nice looking pass (Cambodia seems to be good for official souvenirs).

The first temple was Bayon, which is quite overwhelming in size and detail. It's one of the top 3 temples, and was overrun by tourists. However, it was still my personal favourite.

Next we saw (I'm mostly listing these for my reference) Phimeanakas, Baphuon, Terrace of the Leper King, Terrace of the Elephants, and Prasats Suor Prat. It was stinking hot, and we were struggling just to move in the sun. We stopped for lunch at one of the stalls that are outside most of the ruins, we both had the chicken and ginger with rice which was excellent.

After lunch we saw the Victory Gate, Thommanom (Marissa's favourite), Chau Say Thevoda, Ta Keo, Ta Prohm, and finished at Angkor Wat. Angkor Wat is huge, and the amount of detail is amazing. There's thousands of metres of bas relief images, they just go on forever.

We stayed there for the sunset, Angkor Wat looks really good in the dusk lighting. I was also lucky that two monks in bright orange robes decided to walk across the front in a perfect pose for my picture :)

Nine hours after starting, we returned back to the hotel, exhausted and in need of air conditioning.

The next day we planned out a bit better. The first day was rather slow; we covered the suggested 2nd and 3rd day itineraries into one day, which meant more frequent rides in the tuktuk which provided a breeze to cool us down. (The temples are about 3km apart).

We saw Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som, East Mebon, Pre Rup, Sras Srang, Banteay Kdei, Prasat Kravan and saw the sunset from Phnom Bakheng.

Even though we covered the highlights on Day 1, the temples on Day 2 were still amazing. Every one had something different that made it interesting.

We ran into the French guy that we met in Hat Ton Sai at Ta Som! So we met up for dinner last night. He's really interesting, and we drank away the night, getting home around 3ish.

Today is an admin day -- buying souvenirs, sending emails, getting massages... and then tomorrow Marissa returns to Bangkok and I'm off to southern Laos.

I've kinda messed up my access to money. There are no ATMs in Cambodia or Laos, so you have to go into a bank to get a cash advance. Normally that's not a problem, except my Visa is so worn out, the signature panel says Void Void Void -- which ATMs don't care about, but officious bank people do. So I went to use my backup, my Mastercard. Except I haven't used that in years, and didn't realize it expired last year. So Marissa got some money out for me; and it has to last me until I get back to Thailand. It shouldn't be a problem though.

The internet connection speeds here are really slow so I'm not going to try to upload any pictures. I've taken a couple hundred though -- with digital I'm taking way more pictures.

That's it for now!

Sunday, November 07, 2004

Phuket, Thailand

Phuket is pretty much just a jumping-off spot to get to Koh Phi Phi. Tomorrow we fly to Bangkok and then to Siem Reap in Cambodia, where Angkor Wat is. So we had a day to kill today, and went to the beach, our last chance to be in the ocean; the rest of the trip is inland.

We took a local bus, supposedly called a songthaew (don't ask me how to pronounce that, everyone here has called it "local bus"), to Nai Harn Beach, about 10 km outside of town. A songthaew is just a pickup truck, with two benches and a covering. It only cost us 30B each (about 75 cents).

Nai Harn Beach is a nice long beach, the sand isn't as fine as on Koh Phi Phi, but the water is amazingly clear and warm (about 30C). Had lunch (noodle soup, with chicken to which the locals add chilis, sugar, ground peanuts, and chili flakes. Marissa thought it was weird to add sugar to chicken noodle soup, I think she's too provincial. I had it with everything, including the sugar, it tasted really good).

Beach bummed for the day, and then caught another local bus back to town. The driver tried to con us into paying only 300B! fast! phhht! and showed us a "bus schedule" where the next songthaew wasn't for an hour. In reality, there are no schedules, the songthaews leave whenever there's enough passengers. So we waited only a couple minutes, and some other locals jumped on and so we were off, for 30B.

Yesterday went for dinner to an italian restaurant. I'm always leery of other types of food, because you never know what a Thai's impression of italian food is, but the owner was an italian expat, so I tried the pasta with clams in a white wine sauce, which was excellent. He even had an expresso machine, so I had one, just for the novelty of having an expresso in some small town in Thailand.

I found a solution to the problem of having all my pictures on my camera. (Cause if my camera gets stolen, so do all my pics). There's a lot of places that have card readers (e.g. my camera has an SD-RAM card), and they will cut a CD for you! So for 150B I now have my first week's worth of pictures on a CD.

It takes a while for me to upload pics cause the connection speed in internet places isn't that great, but here's a sampling. You should be able to click on the pics for a larger size if I did this right:

One of the islands we saw on the tour around Koh Phi Phi


West Railay Beach


The cabin we stayed in at Hat Ton Sai


Well Marissa's massage is about done so I have to go meet her for dinner. Later!

Saturday, November 06, 2004

Koh Phi Phi, Thailand

Marissa and I arrived in Koh Phi Phi on Thursday and experienced culture shock. We went from the idyllic beaches of Hat Ton Sai, to here, which is something like Daytona Beach at Spring Break. This place is so overrun with tourists, I was tempted to jump on the next ferry out. However we stayed for a couple nights, and the island did redeem itself.

Yesterday we went on a day-long boat tour of the area. Koh Phi Phi is actually two islands, Phi Phi Don, where everyone stays, and Phi Phi Lei, which is a nature reserve and not populated. There's also a sprinkling of smaller islands all around.

The views of the beaches and coral and limestone cliffs are amazing. The boat tour stopped at about 7 sites, and we snorkelled at most of them. One of the stops was at Maya Bay, which is the beach setting for the movie The Beach. It was the only crowded stop, otherwise it felt like we were the only tourists. At one snorkeling site, Marissa and I saw a whale shark about 7 feet long!! That was pretty lucky of us (it was Marissa that saw it first). ...I took a million pictures, half of them of the limestone cliffs and emerald waters in the background with a long-tailed boat as the subject. We were lucky with the weather -- it was sunny with blue skies the whole day, and only rained in the evening. Every other day we've been here, there's been passing storms.

After the tour, we went for a Thai massage. Ate dinner at a more local spot, and then went to a bar that had a cover band. They were amazing, and had a pretty big repetoire, they even played Chop Suey by System of a Down! When I'm playing guitar, I usually only have 4-5 songs memorized at any time; when I learn a new one, the oldest one drops out of memory.

I'm going to try to take a cooking class while I'm here. I've seen them offered at a couple places -- they start by taking you to the market to show you what the ingredients look like!

Right now we're waiting for the ferry to take us back to the mainland, but to Phuket. We'll have a day there, and then fly to Siem Reap on Monday to see Angkor Wat.

ps. I've changed the settings on my blog to allow anonymous comments -- so you don't need to sign up for an account to leave a comment.

Thursday, November 04, 2004

Krabi Town, Thailand

Yesterday went on a 3-dive trip in the area. It was my first time diving outside the Caribbean, so there was all kinds of new coral and fishies to see.

I caught a long-tailed boat pretty early (around 7:30ish), which met up with the larger diving boat. Then it was a 2-hour ride out near Koh Phi Phi, where we dove.

The first dive was a wreck dive, a 120-ft car ferry that sank on a trip between Krabi and Phuket. Gossip has it that it was an insurance job, because there were no cars on it when it sank. In any case, it makes a good diving wreck because it's made of steel, so it's lasting longer than the sunken wooden fishing boats.

It was pretty cool, except for the fact that it's a pretty popular dive location, and I spent half the time trying to avoid other divers. (And we're not even in the busy season yet!). The dive master said that on some days in the busy season, there's up to 200 divers in the water at the same time. Yikes!

The 2nd dive was even worse for divers, I could barely see because of all the bubbles.

After the 2nd dive we had fish with vegetables and rice, and it tasted amazing. Although diving always works up a hunger for me, and anything I've eaten after diving has always tasted great (like the crab cakes and baleadas in Honduras where I learned to dive, mmm).

On this dive trip were a French and El Salvadorian couple, who were dive instructors on vacation, an older German guy, and 3 German students on vacation.

The last dive was the best one, it was at the rock peak that the wreck had hit, and there were hardly any other divers there. There were beautiful blue coral that I don't know the name of, and we saw a whale shark, and a ray (again I don't know which type).

We got back to the resort around 5:00ish, and I met up with Marissa (who isn't certified, and so had spent the day on an elephant ride tour on the mainland). We went for dinner and then met up with the F/ES couple, had a few beers on a bar on the beach, and then crashed for the night.

Today we're making our way to Koh Phi Phi, we're just waiting for the ferry at 3:00pm. (Koh Phi Phi is the setting for the movie The Beach.)

Tuesday, November 02, 2004

Hat Ton Sai, Thailand

I'm in just about the most remote place you can get, and of course there's an internet cafe. I guess "remote" doesn't have the same meaning as it used to (cue up the Grumpy Old Man voice).

Marissa and I flew from Bangkok to Krabi, on the west coast of Thailand, for the princely sum of $40 US. (I found the cheap flight on the net, go figure). From the airport, we took a taxi to Krabi, and then a long-tailed boat to Hat Ton Sai.

Hat Ton Sai is a beach and a forest surrounded by 200m high limestone cliffs, which make it accessible only by water. We're staying in a pretty nice place, we have our own air conditioned cabin, for $14, including a huge breakfast. The place is carved right out of the trees, there's huge trees and all kinds of tropical plants all around. Plus the chef at the place is amazing, I had for lunch the best pad thai I've ever had. Yesterday I had a rice dish served in a half-pineapple. It's just before busy season, so we have the place pretty much to ourselves. The chef is really attentive, the first day Marissa asked for whole wheat bread, and ever since he's always made sure that her bread was whole wheat.

Just had a massage for 250B (about $6), and don't want to move because I'm all relaxed. I think we're going to come down here every day for a massage.

Because of the limestone cliffs, this place is a hangout for rock climbers. The diving around the area is supposedly one of the top 10 places in the world, and it's only about $15 US a tank! (Elsewhere the going rate is about $50). That's for tomorrow though.

I think we've gotten over our jetlag finally, although with all the opportunities to nap on an island resort, it's hard to tell.

Well, I'm off to plan my diving for tomorrow. I wonder if the US will have decided on who won the election by the time I check tomorrow?

Saturday, October 30, 2004

Bangkok, Thailand

I'm in Thailand! After an uneventful, if rather long, journey from Toronto to Bangkok, Marissa and I arrived here just before midnight on Saturday night.

We left Toronto around 10am on Friday, a short flight to Chicago, then a l-o-n-g 13 hour flight to Tokyo, and a "medium" 7 hour flight to Bangkok. We were fortunate to get bumped up to Business Class on the long flight, and lived in the lap of luxury for the 13 hours. I swear there were more flight attendants than passengers, the food was excellent, in between meals there was a buffet table of fresh fruit and snacks. I was almost expecting a masseuse to be wandering around. But they did have stretching exercises on the video, to ward off the dreaded deep vein thrombosis.

The medium flight seemed longer cause I was stuck beside a rather large guy who half squished into my seat.

I was pretty impressed by the efficiency of the Bangkok airport. We were through immigration in about 5 minutes with a no-charge 30-day tourist visa, and shortly after the conveyor belt started spilling out luggage from our flight. Even the exit from the airport through the inevitable Taxi? throng was pretty tame.

We're staying at the Taewez Guest House, just outside the backpacker-crowd area, 400 baht for a double with airconditioning. It's pretty comfortable here, maybe 30C and a "dry" humidity (it feels humid but not stickly-so).

Today the plan is to relax and see if we're jetlagged. With all the haphazard sleep on the flights, my body has no idea what time it's supposed to be. Tomorrow we take off for the south, to Phuket (ph is a p sound), from there we'll explore some of the islands, dive, try rock climbing, and whatever else suits our fancy...

Sunday, October 24, 2004

Toronto, Canada

On all my previous backpacking trips, my two most valuable possessions were my diary, and my exposed film.

This trip, I'll have neither of them.

This blog will replace my diary, and I'll have a digital camera. It'll be a bit strange. I can just see me in the hostels, talking with the kids in my best SNL's Grumpy Old Man voice, back when I was your age, we had diaries! we used pens and paper, and we liked it! ...they probably won't even know who Grumpy Old Man is *sigh*

I leave this Friday, flying in and out of Bangkok, returning on Nov 29. I'm traveling with a friend, Marissa, not to be confused with Marisa, my ex-girlfriend. Marissa & I will be traveling for 2 weeks, and then I'll be on my own for another 2 weeks after that.

The only plans are to see Angkor Wat in Cambodia (I have a ruin-thing, and this is one of the top ruins in the world to see), and Marissa wants to get to a beach in southern Thailand. Other than that there are no plans.

I've posted my email updates from previous trips on this blog, just to make it look like there's content on my blog.

You can reach me by leaving a comment on the blog (just click on the Comments link); or send me an email at eric_dsouza@hotmail.com. I have my Junk Mail filter set on exclusive, so I won't get your email unless you're in my Hotmail Address book.