Marrakesh, Morocco

We're now into the heat that I was expecting in Morocco. Along the coast the temperature was mild (we were wearing our fleeces at night), but here in Marrakesh it's stinking hot (35C).

Even getting here by bus was hot. CTM only had one bus, late in the afternoon, so we took another line. There was no air conditioning, but I figured that if we sat on the shady side (going east this was on the left) and by a window, we'd be fine. I had bought some pistachios to share with the locals on the bus (as the Lonely Planet had suggested). Heather had a knot in her back which I was trying to massage, when an old lady (who looked like the old lady in Babel) in the seat behind took over and rubbed Heather's back quickly, stretched Heather's arms behind her back, and presto, knot gone. We shared some pistachios, and she offered some mint in return (which you nibble on). The bus ride was nice, until the old lady motioned to us to close the window (maybe she was cold?) Neither of us were going to suggest that maybe we could keep the window open, so the bus gradually became hotter as the journey continued.

I have a good sense of direction and figured I could find our way to the riad when we arrived in Marrakesh, despite the Lonely Planet warnings that it is difficult to find anything in the souq. I hit all my landmarks on the way to the riad, but then we just couldn't find the place. We asked a few people in the souq, and it was always around a corner, juste là. Finally we had to pay a kid Dh10 to lead us. It was down at the end of a twisty alley, without any markings or signage on the door (as is normal). It was Dh10 well spent.

The riad is really nice, although a bit of a splurge (Dh1050). It's even nicer than the previous place in Essaouira.

Last night we ate dinner in Djemaa el-Fna, a huge open air food market. The food was actually quite bland :( There's a lot of tourists here (even a Club Med right on the square), so I think the food is westernized-down a bit. After eating couscous and tajine, we tried another stall, which had cow's tongue, camel hump and some part of lamb. The camel hump was spongy like tofu. The tongue and lamb were quite good.

This morning we visited Ali ben Yousef Medersa (a theological college), Koubba Ba'adiyn (a sanctuary) and Musée de Marrakech. This afternoon we're taking a cooking class in our riad!

We're not that impressed with Marrakech, although it is interesting to visit.