The restaurants in Bagan were hit-and-miss. We found the local food, especially the soups and curries, to be a bit sodium-heavy, and not much meat. The fish dishes are a bit better, so we've had a lot of seafood. We were biking all day on sandy paths so we worked up a bit of an appetite.
We ate at San Carlo a couple times. The first night in we had their pizza and a bottle of local Cabernet Sauvignon, which was pretty good. The next day we went there for lunch and had some local dishes, which we didn't much care for (see above).
Based on a food blogger we tried Starbeam for lunch, in Old Bagan. It was excellent. Bagan's on the Irrawaddy River and so we figured the fish should be fresh. Heather had the sea bass with a celery sauce. I had a whitefish in a lemon butter sauce which so far is the best meal we've had. We actually returned a couple days later and both ordered it again. We also had a fried banana dessert which was perfectly carmelized.
The coffees next door at Moon were pretty good. I tried their fried banana there too, served with a local honey. The honey was yummy, the banana okay.
We had lunch at the highly-recommended Sarabna, but found it disappointing. It looks like they cater more to the tour guide groups.
Our favourite restaurant was Kyaw Kitchen, near our hotel. We had dinner there twice. Heather had the grilled river prawns the first day, served with a carrot-cauliflower mash and other vegetables. It was so good we both had it the next time.
Breakfasts at our hotel were standard (toast, fresh fruit, fresh juice, eggs to order, tea/coffee). It was served on the rooftop terrace, overlooking some minor temples. It was a great setting for breakfast.
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