Saturday, December 30, 2017

Libreville, Gabon

We had a relaxing breakfast because we thought we were departing at 10am. We chatted with some of the newly arrived guests, including one who is a travel writer for the Financial Times and the Telegraph. She had recently been to São Tomé and Príncipe and gave some advice for both. She was debating on which excursions to go on at Loango and based on how much we liked Akaka, she decided on the gorillas and Akaka.

After breakfast we found out we were actually leaving with another group at 9am. So rushed to finish packing, pay our bill (just for the alcohol, everything else was included) and say bye to everyone. Jannie asked us to say hi to the bartender at the Roca Belo Monte in Príncipe (Jannie was the project manager that built both Bom Bom and the Belo Monte years ago).

And so we were off. First was an hour in a safari vehicle to Camp Liambissi. (I forgot to mention that on our excursion to Tassi, we crossed through flooded areas about 4' deep, the water pooled over the hood of the vehicle. It's the deepest water I've driven through). Anyways parts of the trail to Camp Liambissi are washed out and only a safari vehicle would make it.

We switched vehicles at the camp. Another group of seven was returning today as well, and so we needed a second vehicle to get to Port Gentil (POG). We lucked out because it was Philippe (the camp manager) who was driving back to POG for other reasons, and we joined him in his nice air conditioned SUV. We were provided with lots of water and a snack, I guess they quickly made changes to their procedures after our hungry and thirsty ride down!

It was an interesting conversation with Philippe. He's worked to build up tourism in Gabon for the past 16 years. Between him, Jannie and Zeka, I can see tourism growing quickly here.

We were back in POG by 2pm. Relaxed at Le Bouganviller until closer to our flights. The flight for the other group was two hours before ours, but we just went to the airport with them (it was a wash for us whether we waited at the airport or the hotel).

Unfortunately, with AfriJet, they only let you in to their terminal 90 minutes before the flight. There were no seating areas in the (air conditioned) check-in area of the main terminal, so we sat outside in the heat. After an hour or so, we were getting sleepy and noticed there was a little cafe in the terminal with a good coffee machine. So we grabbed a cappuccino each. They offered us seats in the business lounge, which was nice of them.

So finally the check-in opened at AfriJet and we made our way through baggage check and security. Now that we knew it was okay to take water through security we weren't thirsty waiting for the flight.

Arrived after sunset in Libreville, and initially had trouble finding a taxi at the AfriJet terminal. We asked around and someone showed up to drive us for 6,000 Franc, cheaper than what we paid the first time through.

They were expecting us at the Royal Palm. It was Guy at the desk, who Heather had been emailing with over the past few months to sort out our changing itinerary. The restaurant was open until 11pm (it was already 8pm) so we had time to shower and clean up before dinner.

The restaurant was packed at the Royal Palm, it's a destination for locals, especially with tonight being Saturday. Dinner was good, I had the lamb noisette and Heather tried a local fish (capitain).

Overall we both really enjoyed Loango. The highlights were the gorilla tracking and the boat ride to Akaka. We saw other big animals including elephants, buffalo, hippos, duikers and chimpanzees, but the real attraction is just the isolation and lack of other people in the park.

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