Saturday, December 21, 2019

Gjirokastër, Albania

So we’re off again for another trip, two weeks over Christmas to the Balkans. We’ll be spending most of the time in Albania, and then to the port towns of Kotor (in Montenegro) and Dubrovnik (in Croatia).

We flew last night from Toronto to Frankfurt on Lufthansa. After takeoff from Pearson we had great views of downtown at night, flying over the 401 and then south around the DVP. Too bad my camera was in the overhead bin cause it was a great photo op.

We landed in Frankfurt at gate Z17 and our next flight to Tirana left from gate Z19, right beside it! But we had a three hour layover so it really didn’t matter :)

The sunny morning helped with keeping us awake and getting over jetlag. Had some snacks in the lounge. I’m always amazed at the number of people having a beer in the morning in airport lounges. (Although, they could have flown in from a different time zone.) There was also a line up for frankfurters at a booth in the terminal, which is another thing I don’t think I could have in the morning, even in Frankfurt.

The flight to Tirana was on a 90-seater Bombardier, a bit of a change from the 747 we flew over the Atlantic in. The airport in Tirana was also considerably smaller than FRA. After landing in Tirana we just did a U-turn on the runway and taxied to the terminal.

Got some Albanian leks while waiting for our luggage. The immigration guy was very friendly. There’s no visas required for Canadians (nor was there any entry fee, although the Albanian consulate website said it would be 20 EUR). Unfortunately no passport stamp either :( Still counts as a country though, number 91 for me!

We picked up our rental car (a Fiat), and were on our way to Gjirokastër, about three hours south.

It rained the entire drive. It looked like it could be very scenic if not covered in dark clouds! We passed through some small atmospheric towns along the drive, arriving in Gjirokastër around 5:30pm. Google maps took us down a couple narrow streets before we gave up trying to get exactly to the hotel. Instead we parked nearby and walked over.

The hotel proprietor met us just outside, and warmly welcomed us. (We wondered later if word got out in town about the lost tourists and he went to find us, I think we might be the some of the only tourists in Gjirokastër right now). He showed Heather to our room, and then went back out in the rain with me to pick up our luggage. We also moved the car to a better parking spot.

We cleaned up a bit and then went out for dinner. While we were in Frankfurt, I had sent a message on Facebook to Gjoça Restaurant to reserve a table for 7pm. Good thing I did, not cause it was packed, but because it’s normally closed in the off-season!

Dinner was tasty, all traditional Albanian dishes. In particular I was hoping to try qifqi, which is a sort of arancini with mint, found only in Gjirokastër. It’s on every menu here. Sure enough it was one of the dishes suggested by the restaurateur. Everything was delicious. Finished with some complimentary raki, the digestif of choice in the Balkans.

All in all it was a great start to the trip!

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