I forgot to mention the best part of the trip so far -- a 1L carafe of house wine is about €5 in restaurants! Yesterday we had dinner in a cozy little place near the main plaza. The mains were okay (and a little small, even for the half portions we've been ordering). But we had smoked meat and cheese as appetizers which were amazing. The smoked meat was homemade, and likely the cheese as well. We made the mistake of declining bread at the start. You get charged for all appetizers such as bread, or butter, and the mains typically come with rice and potatoes so we found we didn't really need bread as well. However the waiter took it as an affront that we didn't want bread, and we think that's why we got poor service after. So it'll be yes to pao (bread) from now on.
Today we toured a little west from the centre. First we walked by the Casa da Musica, a cool looking building by Rem Koolhaus (I've added a pic to the album on Picasa). Next we dropped into the Museu de Arte Contemporanes. The exhibits were okay, but the gardens were really nice to walk through.
We took the trolley along the riverside back to the centro, had a beer overlooking the river, bridges and the port houses across the river.
Our legs are getting a good workout from the hilly streets. We saw a restaurant with an interesting menu (including liver, and tongue as mains) that we're going check out tonight. Tomorrow we'll catch the train to Braga, about an hour north of Porto by train.
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