Monday, December 05, 2016

Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe

We woke up from a not very good sleep. The power cut out around 3am and so we had no a/c or fans. Ripe fruit dropped on our corrugated metal roof with a loud bang-thud-thud every so often.

The temperature was pleasant at 7am when me and Heather woke up to have breakfast. At 8:25am we were picked up by taxi to get to the Livingstone Lodge, the jumping off point for Devil's Pool. Paid $98 each (luckily the credit card POS had a connection so we didn't have to use up US cash). At 9am, right on schedule, a motor boat picked us up for a five minute ride through the Zambezi and small rapids to Livingstone Island. We then walked about five minutes, with close up views over into the gorge. (I think these were the tourists that were in my pics yesterday).

We then swam about 15m to the rocks from which you enter Devils Pool. It wasn't deep (probably could have touched the bottom the whole way) but the current was strong. There were a couple ropes for those who weren't strong swimmers.

We waited for our turn to enter Devils Pool. The guides allow only four people at a time so that they can watch over the group. Another guide had taken one camera per group as the official photographer, and was busy snapping away. They run a tight ship here!

We bum-stepped into Devils Pool and the current immediately took us across. The infinity-pool-like wall stops you from going over, but it can be unnerving for some. It's possible to look over the edge all the way down. I took some pics with my underwater camera.

The official photographer had us in all kinds of poses. He took his job very seriously, getting upset when our arms weren't in the perfect position.

After a few minutes our time was up, and we went back to Livingstone Island, where we were served a fancy breakfast including eggs benedict (!) all made fresh in a kitchen tent on the island. I wasn't aware that breakfast was included as we ate at the hotel prior to the excursion. I didn't think I was hungry but still managed to finish it. There was no time to sip and enjoy our coffee as the guides had us lined up for the motor boat back to the mainland.

Our taxi driver drove us back to the Green Tree Lodge and waited while we changed and finished packing.

Next up was the border crossing to Zimbabwe. Land crossings are generally more complicated especially if there's a no-man's land in between.

Exiting Zambia was straightforward. Got our passports stamped (no forms to fill out). In the meantime our driver had arranged with a no-man's land taxi driver for the 1km drive to the Zimbabwe entry. It's possible to walk but it was hot and the ride was just $5 between the four of us.

Entering Zimbabwe was a little more confusing as there were lots of people milling about. But it was also straightforward - paid $75 USD each and gave our passports at one window (again, no forms to fill out) and then a couple minutes later handed back to us through the next window. The visa is a full page sticker, very nice.

Once again in the meantime our driver had passed us off to our next taxi, this one on the Zimbabwe side, to take us to our hotel. We had to run our bags through an X-ray machine at the border, which I think was just procedural as I didn't see anyone monitoring what was inside (I'm sure their process just says to X-ray the bags).

Victoria Falls (the town on the Zimbabwe side is named after the Falls) is right beside the Falls, as opposed to Livingstone which is about 10km away, so it was a short taxi ride to Bayete Guest Lodge.

Bayete was much nicer than our last place in Livingstone. Tourist infrastructure is more developed in Zimbabwe and there was more choice between mid-range hotels.

It was just after noon and we already had had a full day. So we planned out excursions for tomorrow (Marissa's going horseback riding; Heather and I are shopping for curios) and then relaxed in the main lodge.

Had a few Zambezi's (the local beer) to celebrate going to Devils Pool. Went off-menu and ordered grill cheese with tomato for a snack - we weren't too hungry as we'd had two breakfasts already. Based on the great grilled cheese and nice atmosphere in the main lodge, decided to have dinner there as well.

So later on we got back to the main lodge and had a tasty dinner of grilled chicken and nice sides. They made Marissa a vegetarian meal of rice and lentils, also very tasty. Heather ordered a bottle of white, as they just wrote her room number and kept it in the fridge for the next day. Overall another full day at Victoria Falls!

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