Saturday, May 11, 2019

Istanbul, Turkey

On one of our previous times through Istanbul, we stumbled across an artist at work in his workshop, his paintings catching our eye from the street. He saw us outside and invited us in. (We only found out later he doesn’t normally do this when working on a piece; we think it might be because as we were admiring his paintings through the window his cats came up to say ‘hello’ and purred at us). Heather googled him later, and it turned out he’s a renowned Turkish artist, Irfan Yavru.

So today we went first to his workshop and then over to his studio. Neither was open yet, but it was also only 10am on a Saturday, I’m sure no self-respecting artist is up at that hour. He had a ‘contact us if we’re closed’ sign in the window, so we went back to our hotel for wifi and sent off a quick email.

Next we stopped into 3rd Culture, a store just down the street from our hotel. There were excellent photos on the walls from many cool travel destinations, half of which we had been to and the other half on our list. The owner came over and introduced himself (he’s also the photographer and a journalist). Chatted some more and found out his wife is from Leslieville (!), our neighbourhood in Toronto. Small world!

We bought a couple lamp shades for the bedroom, which were packaged in sturdy hat boxes. Guess we’ll have some extra carry-on :)

Stopped into a few more shops in the neighbourhood and then went back to the art studio again. This time the studio assistant was there, so the three of us walked over to the workshop to check out the painting we wanted. Irfan (the artist) was out of town so the assistant was also the friendly cat sitter :)

The assistant said he needed to call Irfan about the painting. Apparently there was an American buyer also interested in the piece. We could only hear half the conversation, and in Turkish at that, so we didn’t know if we would be able to buy it until after the call ended.

Turns out the ‘American buyer’ was actually Heather! The artist remembered us visiting a few weeks ago and expressing interest in the piece. Then when he got the email we sent earlier in the morning, he assumed that Heather was American :)

With all that cleared up, we agreed to buy the painting. The assistant asked us to return to the studio later in the day. In the meantime, he would prepare it for travel.

Had lunch at another great pide place (although we walked a lot today, so far we hadn’t ventured more than 10 minutes away from the hotel).

Later in the afternoon, there was a huge thunderstorm and downpour. We tucked inside a shop and didn’t get too wet.

Got back to the hotel mid-afternoon and did a big repack for the trip home. Over each leg our trip, we’d been accumulating souvenirs, which we just stored in left luggage in at our Istanbul hotel. Now we finally had to pack them for our airline flight.

Joined the hotel owner, Bulent, downstairs for happy hour, and chatted with him for a while. He really did make it seem like ‘a home away from home’ while we were here.

For dinner, we tried another mezze place, Ficcin Restoran, recommended by Bulent. It was a down a little alley, very atmospheric, and filled with locals. It was a great meal to finish off our trip!

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